The Forgotten Jewel of Lake of the Woods: Devil’s Gap Lodge

by Braden Murray

 

The Lake of the Woods, as many know, is full of hidden jewels.

Having been finished in the 1880s, the Canadian Pacific Railway (C.P.R.) wanted to take advantage of the beautiful lake and give it the recognition it deserved. Into the 1910s, Kenora grew to an established population of 7 000, meaning the town could accommodate and staff larger businesses. It became clear by working together, Kenora and the C.P.R. could create a tourist destination through a C.P.R. bungalow camp.

1919 was the year Mayor George A. Toole of Kenora along with J. E. Currie met with Mr. George A. Walton, General Passenger Agent of the C.P.R. in Winnipeg. They discussed further steps to improve transportation on the lake as there were not many options at the time. The goal was to populate tourism in places only reachable by boat.

With talk starting in 1922, it was decided around March of 1923 a piece of land was wanted; the far east end of Devil’s Gap channel located on Rat Portage Reserve (38B). Luckily, a previous consensus had been met between Indian Affairs and the Local Board of Trade and Town Council to gain 22 acres of land for a 99 year lease to preserve the shoreline from Lumbermen.

The plan included smaller bungalows surrounding one large lodge all to be accessible only by boat on a section of the leased land. To the delight of Kenora and C.P.R., an agreement was made for the camp to be built on Rat Portage Reserve on its preferred site.

After that, it did not take long for Mr. Gardam, Superintendent of Construction of C.P.R. camps and assistant Mr. Gibbons to arrive in Kenora from Montreal to determine the locations of the bungalows and main lodge. Arriving early May, they got to work on what would most commonly be known as the Devil’s Gap Bungalow Camp. Like many C.P.R camps, it was determined it would be in the name of the C.P.R. company, but would be leased to a manager, which would be Mrs. Olive Betts.

With an approved design in 1923, construction did not take long. The date set for the opening was July 1st of the same year! Many reservations were already made by June, making it a promising unveiling. Its grand opening was July 1st, 1923 with 60-70 Kenora residents making the trip for the dinner and dance starting off the summer season.

With Kenora on the main route of the C.P.R, it was more convenient to choose as a holiday getaway. Many guests came from the United States, specifically Chicago, Kansas City, and St. Louis meaning they had to get a connecting train from the Soo Line (American railroad) to Winnipeg, then to Kenora. Guests would disembark the train and take either a short 1/2 mile taxi-cab or bus ride to the Kenora Fish Market dock. There, guests were met with two motor boats of the camp named the Canadiana and the Nipigon which held about thirty passengers each, taking around a twenty minute boat ride to the final destination. The route started in Kenora Bay, then Cameron Narrows and finally Devil’s Gap Channel.

The camp began with 22 bungalow cabins. The two options included a single which had one room and two beds or a double which had two rooms and four beds all including running water and electric lighting. Starting rates were $5.00 a person per day or $30.00 a person per week. The total accommodation of the camp was 61 guests. Even before opening, high interest prompted the camp to be prepared to build more bungalows. As a result, five new bungalows were built in the year 1925, bringing the accommodation up to 80 guests.

The main lodge was where people would gather for social activities. It included a large dinning room fitting 100 guests, a lounge with a stone fireplace, a large verandah most commonly used for events such as dances, and a culinary space. With trails leading from the bungalows to the main lodge, it was the centrepiece and life of the camp.

Fact: The summer camp of D.L. Mather, relation to John Mather of the Keewatin Milling Company, sat opposite of the Devil’s Gap Lodge Bungalow Camp.

Winnipeg Tribune, June 12, 1947, Page 13, Winnipeg, Manitoba, CA.

To paint a picture of the camp, it had quite the amenities. Countless activities were available to guests including; tennis, volleyball, badminton, paddling, sailing, rowing, swimming, canoeing, fishing, a beach, a dock and more. To the likes of the camp and its guests, the Kenora Golf and Country Club was due for its opening the same summer as the camp. Another highlight of the camp was its 25-75 staff members ranging from bell-boys, chambermaids, waitresses, handymen, cooks, and Indigenous guides.

The 1930s were the camps most busy years. Reservations were needed to be made two to three years in advance and many returning guests filled the camp with their eagerness to be back every summer. The returning visitors resulted in the cabins being referred to as the guests names; for example the Zimmer, Becker, or the Adler Cottage.

Although booming in these years, as time went on, many people had their own personal vehicles and did not have the need to travel by rail. In addition, the camp was only accessible by water although on mainland, making it a more difficult trip compared to other camps and was strictly open only a couple months of the year.

Unfortunately, after 37 years of operation by the C.P.R., the camp was set to be sold. The camp was meant to promote railway travel, and with the decline in its popularity, it became clear to the C.P.R. they were not benefiting from running the camp any longer according to the General Manager of C.P.R. Hotels, R.A Mackie.

Quickly during that same year, the sale went to Doug Ford and his brother. With new owners, the Fords made the decision the only way to keep customers was to build a road to the resort so people with their personal vehicles could drive directly there. In 1965, a road was built going through Rat Portage Reserve with the help of counsellor Alex Skead. Although much work went into keeping the camp open, things such as Anicinabe Park and its distance from town scared people away, ultimately closing the camp for good the summer of 1975. The Fords lost around $40 000 in cancelled reservations meaning they were forced to close.

The cabins were sold individually, while still pertaining the lease with the Rat Portage Reserve. Many were yearly campers of the site. Later, this lease became an issue.

Devil’s Gap Lodge.

In the year 2007, the Devil’s Gap Cottagers Association and Wauzhushk Onigum First Nation went into a lease dispute. Chief Ken Skead sent out a letter in March 2007 to owners of previous Devil’s Gap Lodge Cabins that said the lease would not be renewed at the end of the year. President of the Devil’s Gap Cottagers Association, Reg Wightman, said long term leases were being spoken about for the last ten years, and was supported by many Band Council Resolutions as there was already a signed agreement stating the lease would be extended to 2020. At this time, it was said the community wanted to use the area as a form of commercial revenue, but had no plan just yet. Thirty-three families lost their cottages at the end of 2007.

After that, there were two extensive fires, one in 2012 and one in April of 2019 that ultimately destroyed the cabins which are now piles of rubble. Sadly, the remaining burnt cabins are all that are left of the camp, but the memory of the Devil’s Gap Lodge will always live on through previous cabin owners and fond memories.

 

 

Sources All Found in Devil’s Gap File:

Devil’s Gap Bungalow Brochure, Printed in Canada-1927

Devil’s Gap Bungalow Camp; By Lori Nelson (Article) – Lake of the Woods Area News – Vol.30. No.2 / April 2000

Kenora Daily Miner and News, Wednesday January 15th, 1919; C.P.R to Boost lake of the Woods (Newspaper Article)

Kenora Daily Miner and News, Wednesday May 9th, 1923; Start Work C.P.R. Bungalow Camp at Devil’s Gap; Will be Known as “Devil’s Gap Camp” – Magnificent View From the High Lands – Rates Per Day Will Be Reasonable.

Kenora Daily Miner and News, Saturday March 24th, 1923; C.P.R. May Build Hotel at the Devil’s Gap; If Suitable Arrangements Can be Made for Site Selected – Will be of the Bungalow Type – Will Attract the Transcontinental Tourist.

Kenora Daily Miner and News, Wednesday June 20th, 1923; Bungalow Camp Opens July 1; Construction on the New C.P.R. Camps at Devil’s Gap Speeded Up – Will Soon Be Ready For Occupancy.

Kenora Daily Miner and News, Wednesday July 4th, 1923; C.P.R. Open Devil’s Gap Bungalow Camp; About Sixty Guests entertained at an Informal Dinner and Dance Saturday Evening.; Will be a Great Factor in Advertising the lake of the Woods as a Great Summer Resort.

Lake of the Woods Enterprise, Volume 12 Number 18, Saturday May 5th, 2007; Rat Portage Cottagers Contest Eviction Notice, By Reg Clayton

Summer Camp at Devil’s Gap – lake of the Woods Resort Fitted by Canadian Pacific for Holiday-makers (Newspaper Article with no Date or Newspaper Maker)

The Summer People: A History of Kenora’s Tourist Industry. Experience ’79 Project by Patty Nelson and Lori Nelson, 1979.

TRAFFIC DIMINISHING – C.P.R. Plans to Sell Devil’s Gap Lodge (Newspaper Article with no Date or Newspaper Maker)

Sources Found Online:
Fire https://kenoraonline.com/articles/fire-at-devil-s-gap-cottages

Flyer – UBC Library https://open.library.ubc.ca/viewer/chungtext/1.0356769#p6z-5r0f:

 

Did you know?

The original telegraph lines from Winnipeg to Rat Portage were hung along the tops of living spruce trees.